Thursday, November 29, 2012

How to Create a Slit Pocket

As a sewing beginner you might have already tried to make pockets that are stitched onto shirts or jackets. After all, outside pockets arent that hard to create. After cutting, folding and pressing the pocket shape you simply sew around it to attach it to the garment. Slit pockets, however, seem a little more intimidating to most beginners. You know the type of pocket to which I refer, dont you? Theyre the type that look like a simple slit in the garment but the pocket itself is hidden on the backside. These pockets might be slightly more challenging but are easy enough for even beginners to create.

Choose the material you will use to create the pockets. The fabric should be lightweight, like muslin or similar cloth. Youll only need a small piece to make each pocket. Theres no particular size to cut the pockets; youll want to cut them smaller for childrens clothes and larger for adult clothes. If you have large hands you might want large pockets. If youre a petite person you might not want the pockets to be extra-large. Youll decide on the size you want them to be. A good rule of thumb is to cut the pocket so that it is slightly larger than the width of the hand, nearly as long as the hand.

At risk of stating the obvious, choose light colored fabric for pants that are light in color although you can often use light colored cloth on dark clothing as well. To make each pocket cut two rectangles of the cloth. One rectangle should be about two inches longer than the other but they should both be the same width. Set the fabric pieces aside while you create the slit for the pocket access. Cut the slit in the pants so that it is slightly shorter than the top of the pocket youve cut. The top of the pocket will be one of the short ends of the fabric rectangles. Stitch one of the short ends of the longest pocket to the top of the slit. To do this youll need to place the wrong side of the pocket to the wrong side of the slit. Align it so that the edge of the pocket is matched up with the edge of the top of the slit. The length of the pocket should be pointing towards the waist of the pants, and not down, over the lower slit. Stitch straight across. Place the second, smaller pocket piece against the underside of the lower slit. Align it so that the top edge of the pocket piece is against the edge of the slit. The length of the fabric should be pointing away from the top slit. Stitch straight across. Now pull the to pocket piece down and over the smaller pocket piece. Align them and stitch the two of them together on the two sides and bottom. If one piece happens to be shorter than the other simply trim it so that both are the same before stitching. Your pocket is now formed and attached to the two sides of the slit. The slit, however, has raw edges still showing. To hide these use seam tape. Purchase it in the same color as the pants themselves. Cut the exact length you need to go across the top and bottom slit. Cut the seam tape so that it is a half-inch longer than the needed amount. Fold the seam tape and position the ends so that they are on top of each other and right sides are together. Stitch the tiny seam. Now stitch the seam tape around the pocket making sure half the folded tape is on the outer side of the slits and the other half is underneath the slits. This overlapping of the slits will give a finished look to the pocket. You dont necessarily have to make all slit pockets rectangular. They can be rounded or even paisley-shaped. The thing to remember, though, is to make one side of the pocket straight so that it can be easily sewn to the slit. Beginners may find it easiest to sew the two pocket pieces together around three sides, then pin the pocket opening to the slit in the pants. For side pockets cut a slit in the side seam then stitch the pocket to the slit. The slit pockets are great for the backs of pants as well as jackets, too. If youre a little intimidated to make your first slit pocket practice on a piece of cloth. Cut a slit in the cloth, sew in the pocket, then finish

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